Aerofoils eFoil — frequently asked questions

Usually it's an empty or overheated battery, a loose data cable, or water ingress. Ride back to shore, open the battery compartment, and check the error message and connectors. If there's a water warning on the battery or drive unit, stop and contact support.

1. Carefully ride back to shore, open the battery compartment
2. Read the error message: 'Battery empty'/'Over temperature' (protective shutdown, let it cool down), 'Water ingress' (don't continue riding, contact support), 'Communication/drive error' (reconnect, otherwise contact support)
3. Check the data connector for a secure fit, remove water/dirt between the data cables
4. Check whether the remote reconnects to the board

Almost always stones, sand, or plant debris have gotten caught in the drive unit. First disconnect the battery completely, flush the drive unit with fresh water, and remove any foreign objects. If it persists, the impeller or stator is worn — replace it or contact support. Never work on the drive unit while the battery is connected.

1. Disconnect the battery completely: open the battery compartment, unplug the data connector, then the power cable (black/orange), remove the battery
2. Check the nozzle and impeller for stones/sand/twigs/fishing line, flush the drive unit with fresh water
3. No foreign object/damage found → clean or replace the impeller/stator, otherwise contact support

Rinse all components thoroughly with fresh water after every ride — this is mandatory after saltwater, otherwise salt will attack contacts and seals. Take the battery out, put the battery compartment into the drain position, and let everything dry completely before storing it. Never use high pressure or compressed air.

1. Lock the motor/turn off the remote, take the eFoil out of the water onto a soft surface
2. Open the battery compartment, disconnect the data connector + power cable, remove the battery
3. Put the battery compartment into the drain position (turn the latches 180°, lift the compartment, turn the latches back 180° → it clicks lightly into the open position)
4. Rinse all components with fresh water (rinse the battery separately per the datasheet); no high pressure/compressed air, no solvents/harsh cleaners
5. Let everything dry completely (including the deck pad + cavities), then store it

Before storing it, clean and dry all components and loosen the connections that were screwed together during assembly. Charge the battery to 20–30% and check its level every four weeks — it must never be deep-discharged, and never store it below -5 °C. Clean the electrical contacts and coat them with grease for protection.

1. Clean thoroughly (car cleaner is fine; no cold cleaners/rim cleaners/solvents), dry completely
2. Loosen the connections screwed together during assembly (wing/stabilizer/mast), rinse with fresh water, dry, lightly coat the screws with eco-friendly grease
3. Clean the electrical contacts with contact cleaner, protect them with waterproof grease/contact oil
4. Charge the battery to 20–30% (2 LEDs), store it cool/dry and separately, not below -5 °C
5. Check the charge level of the battery and remote every 4 weeks, recharge if needed; never let it deep-discharge

This is usually due to a lost pairing (often after a software update) or dirty contacts in the board. In the vast majority of cases, re-pairing plus checking the connectors solves it.

1. Re-pair: board assembled, battery compartment open → menu Settings > Pairing > Pair new board → follow the on-screen instructions (close/open/close/close the compartment) until 'Pairing successful' appears
2. Check the connectors in the battery compartment, clean the contacts if needed
3. Check the battery level of the remote and the board

The battery level is almost always the cause. Charge the remote, check its charge status and the auto shut-off settings. If it loses signal in the water, the remote or board was usually too deep or underwater too long. If it cuts out during a ride instead, it's usually outdated software or radio interference at a specific spot.

1. Turns off: check battery level; adjust Settings > Battery Saving > Power Timeout
2. Won't turn on: charge it; after a long period of inactivity the charge indicator can take up to 15 min to show (the start of charging is initially only confirmed haptically)
3. Signal loss in the water: check the battery level of both remote and eFoil; don't submerge too deep/long — this typically happens at the start, not at full speed
4. Dropouts during the ride: check the software, but do it properly — the version number alone doesn't show whether something newer exists. Connect the remote to the app for that
5. Install the update and watch the board the next time you turn it on: the board and battery often report on their own that they want to load an update from the remote — their updates come bundled through the remote
6. In the settings, enable Bluetooth and the Advanced Link: the Advanced Link stabilizes the connection to the board and avoids sources of interference
7. Note where the dropouts happen: always at the same spot? Then a nearby radio source is the most likely cause, not your own equipment
8. If the dropouts persist despite being up to date and having Advanced Link active: stop riding and get in touch with us

Take the eFoil out of the water and dry everything thoroughly. There are three causes you can check yourself: a dirty or damaged gasket on the battery cover, loose fasteners, or a missing gasket between board and mast. If you get a water warning on the battery, contact support.

1. Check the gasket on the battery cover: sand or dirt on the sealing surface is enough to let water in. Rinse with fresh water, wipe dry, check for damage
2. Check the fasteners: are they still tight? To retighten, two nuts are locked against each other, after which the fastener sits tight again
3. Make sure the compartment closes completely and the battery sits flush in the board; clean the contact surface if needed
4. Check the gasket between board and mast: it can fall out. If it's missing, water gets into the battery compartment
5. After hitting the bottom: remove the drive unit and place a straight ruler across the mast plate and the four bores. If the plate sits two to three millimeters high at the corners, the gasket is no longer seated properly — do not continue riding
6. For the display message 'Water ingress battery/drive': stop using it, contact support

No. Never continue using a dropped battery under any circumstances, and contact Aerofoils support immediately. Also don't keep operating it if power/data cables are damaged — contact support instead. A battery with internal damage can look fine on the outside and still be dangerous.

1. Take the battery/eFoil out of service immediately, stop charging it
2. Contact Aerofoils support and describe the incident; only continue using it after approval/replacement
3. If there's deformation/smoke: keep your distance, disconnect the power source, call the fire department; never extinguish with water

The remote shows Info messages (just notices), Warnings (performance may drop, e.g. throttling), and Errors (a problem that needs fixing). For overtemperature, cooling down helps; for water ingress or communication errors, support is the way to go.

1. Info (e.g. 'Motor locked', battery indicators): no action needed, or press the button to unlock
2. Warning 'Battery low/critical': motor may shut off, head back to shore; 'high temperature': performance drops until it cools down
3. Error 'Overtemperature': let it cool down and try again; 'Communication/drive error': reconnect, otherwise contact support
4. Error/Warning 'Water ingress battery/drive/remote': stop using it, contact support
5. Blinking LEDs on the battery don't mean there's currently an error: they indicate that an error occurred once within the last five active hours (active time = charging and discharging, not idle time)
6. If the board runs normally and the blinking stops after a few hours of use, it was a one-time event
7. If the blinking persists or a specific fault behavior occurs (shutting off while riding, no charging progress, drive doesn't disengage): note down what happened and report it to us
8. Soft reset (hold button > 10 s) only for unclear error displays

Before every session, do a visual check plus check that everything's seated firmly and check the charge levels; after every session, rinse and dry it. Aerofoils doesn't have fixed maintenance intervals or a mandatory service — a drive service is possible, but optional.

1. Before every session: visual check of all components, freedom of movement of latches/levers, charge levels, seals, torques + firm seating of wing/stabilizer/mast, connectors/cables
2. After every session: rinse with fresh water (battery separately), check battery compartment for tightness, dry it, clean and grease screws/threads if needed
3. From time to time: check mast play; replace the sacrificial anode once it's visibly worn down — there's no fixed interval for that
4. Drive service is optional, not on a fixed schedule: renew seals and consumables, read out the fault memory — makes most sense if you're sending in the drive anyway

You absolutely must disconnect the battery completely from the eFoil first — otherwise there's a serious risk of injury. Then disassemble the drive from the back (nozzle, stator, nut), pull off the impeller with the special tool, fit the new one and tighten it to the specified torque. For technically skilled users only.

1. Disconnect the battery completely (mandatory); never remove the nozzle while the battery is connected
2. Turn the nozzle counterclockwise to remove it; unscrew the stator using the special tool; loosen the nut (hold with a 4 mm hex key)
3. Pull off the impeller with the special tool: fully screw in three M3 screws, then turn the middle screw until the impeller comes loose
4. Clean the parts, lightly grease the threads; tighten the new impeller with the M8 nut to 10 Nm; fit the (greased) stator and nozzle and tighten clockwise
5. Never start the motor without the nozzle; when in doubt, consult a specialist workshop/support
6. If the impeller is stuck: first check whether the M8 nut is really off — if it's still on, the impeller won't come off no matter how much force you use
7. If it still won't come off: carefully warm it up so it expands slightly, then apply the puller again
8. Don't force the screw: otherwise the hex socket strips, turning a quick job into a workshop case
9. Only open what's necessary for the job: if the motor chamber is opened, the oil will drain out and the drive won't be operational anymore
10. For a foreign object stuck in the impeller, unscrewing the nozzle is enough — the chamber behind it stays closed
11. If oil has leaked out: don't keep riding, report it to us. Don't refill with just any oil

There's no fixed interval for either — just check from time to time. Simply unscrew the sacrificial anode on the drive and replace it once it's visibly worn down; it protects against corrosion. You check mast play on the assembled board: if everything's in good condition, the mast shouldn't move noticeably. If you feel play, retightening the two upper mast screws to 10 Nm usually fixes it.

1. Sacrificial anode (on the drive unit): remove the screw, insert a new anode — once it's visibly worn down; there's no fixed interval
2. Mast play: mount board + drive, flip the board over on a soft surface (EVA deck facing down)
3. Move the mast alternately 90° to the direction of travel with max. 5 kg of force — no noticeable play = fine
4. If there's play: in our experience it can usually be fixed by retightening the two upper mast screws to 10 Nm — they're located under the controller cover (details in the 'Mast is loose / retighten mast screws' section)
5. If you don't feel confident doing this, or play remains despite correct torque: stop riding and contact support
6. Apply a thin layer of silicone grease to seals and plastic parts (e.g. OKS Multi Silicone Grease) — doesn't attack plastic, environmentally friendly
7. Don't use mineral oil–based grease: it can attack seals and plastic
8. Before greasing, rinse the sealing surface with fresh water and wipe it dry — grease on sand doesn't help
9. If the stabilizer sits crooked despite being undamaged: check the struts at the inlet for warping or twisting, ideally comparing with a second drive
10. Bent struts can't be straightened — let us know before continuing to ride

If the damage could impair function or cause a leak, take the board out of service immediately and let it dry. Repairs should only be done by experienced professionals. Damage to the mast mount, battery compartment, or sealing surfaces is safety-relevant — in that case, contact customer service. A simple paint chip with intact structure, on the other hand, is purely cosmetic and can be fixed by a local painter; we'll give you the color values.

1. If there's a risk to function or water-tightness: stop riding and let the board dry
2. Have repairs carried out only by experienced experts
3. Damage to mast mount/battery compartment/sealing surfaces → contact Aerofoils customer service
4. Distinction: if only the paint has chipped off and the structure is intact, that's cosmetic and not a reason to take the board out of service
5. Pure paint damage: get it fixed by a local painter — tell us whether your board is dark or white and where the damage is, and we'll give you the original color values
6. The line is between cosmetic and structural: paint gone but otherwise intact = cosmetic; cracks, soft spots, damaged sealing surfaces, or suspected water ingress = take the board out of service and contact support

Always charge the battery somewhere dry, away from flammable objects, and at 10–30 °C. First connect the power cables (black and orange) matching the colors correctly, then the data line. The charger blinks green and switches off automatically once the battery is full. Before every session, the battery should have at least 50%.

1. Dry spot, away from flammable materials, 10–30 °C; check charger/cable/plug beforehand, never use damaged parts
2. Connect matching colors: first the power cable (black/orange), then the data line
3. Charge indicator blinks green; the charger switches off automatically once fully charged
4. Visual inspection before riding; charge the battery to at least 50%
5. Only use the original charger, don't charge at excessively high temperatures (fire/explosion risk)
6. Slow charging: after plugging in, press the button for longer than 3 and less than 5 seconds
7. Pressing too long turns the battery off again — on the charger the LED switches from green to yellow. Then start over
8. Slow charging is especially worthwhile with weak power sources (campsite, solar system); on a normal household outlet it's not strictly necessary

Connect the USB charging cable to a USB power adapter and plug the charging connector into the remote's charging port. A charge bar appears on the display while charging. If it stops charging altogether, in our experience the cause is almost always oxidized charging contacts — clean them on the remote and on the magnetic charging plug. Remotes from 2026 onward charge inductively, so this can't happen with those.

1. USB charging cable to the power adapter, charging connector to the remote
2. Charge bar appears; display goes dark, pressing a button shows the charge level; after a deep discharge it can take up to 15 min before the display shows anything
3. Charge to at least 30% before riding; check for damage, lever/buttons move freely; keep out of direct sunlight
4. Won't charge anymore: This affects the models with a magnetic charging plug — remotes from 2026 onward charge inductively, where this doesn't occur
5. Clean the charging contacts: on the remote and on the magnetic plug. A fiberglass or eraser pen (e.g. Faber-Castell Perfection 7058/B) removes the oxide layer without damaging the contacts
6. Reason: the contacts come into contact with water and oxidize over time; even a thin layer prevents the charging current
7. Afterward, leave it on the charger for at least 15 minutes before judging whether it's charging
8. If that doesn't help: test with a second charging cable and a second power adapter before assuming it's defective
9. If it doesn't respond at all anymore, the battery may be deeply discharged — this can't always be fixed yourself, so report it to us in that case

Keep small metal parts away from it, never expose the battery to sustained heat, and never open it yourself. Store it dry, away from flammable materials, and at a 20–30% charge level. For transport, take it out of the board — it's classified as dangerous goods and must not go in a pressure-tight box.

1. Handling: keep metal parts away (short-circuit risk), no sustained heat, never open/repair it yourself
2. Storage: dry, away from flammable materials, storage charge level 20–30% (if full: hold the button for about 10 s until the LED blinks to self-discharge), check every 4 weeks, not below -5 °C, never let it deep-discharge
3. Transport: remove the battery from the board, treat it as dangerous goods, not in a pressure-tight box (except a dedicated battery box)
4. Shipping only as dangerous goods: the battery falls under UN 3480 (lithium-ion batteries). Normal parcel shipping is not permitted — it will either be rejected or constitutes a regulatory offense
5. Use the original box with the dangerous goods label and keep it for that reason
6. The shipment must be explicitly booked as dangerous goods: double-check this on the shipping label before handing over the package — even if someone else sent you the label
7. Bring it to the storage charge level of 20–30% before shipping, not full; self-discharging can take several hours depending on the charge state
8. If damaged/deformed/smoking: take it out of service, never charge it again, keep your distance, disconnect the power source, call the fire department, never extinguish with water

A defective lithium battery is hazardous material and never belongs in household waste. Take it out of service immediately, stop charging it, and store it dry, away from flammable materials, until disposal. You can drop off the eFoil, remote control, undamaged battery, and charger at your dealer free of charge.

1. Immediately take the damaged battery out of service, never charge it again, store it dry and away from flammable materials
2. Return the eFoil/remote control/undamaged battery/charger to your dealer free of charge; don't disassemble anything for disposal
3. If liquid/vapors leak out: don't touch, don't inhale, ventilate the area; if eye contact/symptoms occur → see a doctor, rinse skin immediately with water

All screws and threads must be clean and lightly greased, sealing surfaces free of sand. Attach the mast with four M6x20 screws in a crosswise pattern at 8 Nm, the wing (three M6x30) and stabilizer (two M6x20) at 6 Nm. Check all components for damage before every session.

1. Place the board with the closed battery compartment facing down on a soft surface; screws/threads clean + lightly greased; sealing surfaces/connectors free of sand, O-rings intact
2. Insert the propulsion unit into the mast mount (cable facing the direction of travel), check the seal fit, attach the mast with 4x M6x20 crosswise at 8 Nm
3. Wing (3x M6x30) and stabilizer (2x M6x20) at 6 Nm; only remove protective caps just before riding
4. Do all wings use the same screws? Yes, with one exception: all front wings use M6x30, only the 2000 model needs the 5 mm longer M6x35
5. The longer screws belong exclusively on the 2000 model. On a smaller front wing they go in too far and damage the area where the wing attaches to the drive unit
6. Sets with a 2000 wing usually come with the matching screws included; keep them separate and only use them there
7. Whenever you change wing size, always change the matching screws too

Open the battery compartment (lift the latches, turn 180°, open the lid max. 90°). Insert the battery flat and flush, first connect the power cables (black/orange) matching colors, then the data line until you hear a clear click. Close the lid and lock it — an acoustic signal confirms the connection.

1. Open the compartment: lift the latches, turn 180°, open the lid without force up to max. 90°
2. Insert the battery flat/flush; connectors on the side where the mast cables exit
3. Cables clean/corrosion-free; first the power cable (black/orange), then the data line matching colors until it clicks; don't damage or kink the seals/connectors
4. Close the lid, press it down, turn the latches 180° and fold them over; an acoustic signal confirms the connection
5. Never bridge the contacts (risk of electric shock); never go into the water with the lid open; motor max. a few seconds dry
6. If the drive sometimes doesn't unlock even though everything is inserted correctly: open the lid, unplug all cables, deliberately plug them back in firmly, close the lid — this fixes connection issues in many cases
7. If it works afterward, it was a connection issue. If it happens repeatedly: note down when it happens — sporadic errors are otherwise hard to pin down
8. Second possible cause: the Speed Limiter. Without a GPS signal it won't unlock the motor (see the 'Board won't unlock / won't start' section)

Practice every step on land first. Start in "Gonna Fly" mode with a limited power level and the motor locked, and wait for GPS. Ride lying down first, then kneeling, then standing — always with pressure on your front foot. Only once you're standing securely do you accelerate until liftoff. Always wear a helmet and life jacket.

1. Prepare: remote control on your wrist, 'Gonna Fly' mode, power level 3, motor locked, wait for GPS
2. Lying down: centered on your stomach, look forward, support yourself with your forearms; unlock the motor, meter the throttle lever, shift weight forward with speed
3. Standing up: at low speed bring your knees forward, plant your front foot, stand up with steady pressure
4. Liftoff: once standing securely at ~15 km/h, release pressure on the front foot to lift off, then immediately reapply pressure; keep the wing under water; start at max. 20 km/h; steering via body weight
5. Loss of control: release the throttle lever, jump off to the side (never forward), land clear of the board/wing/mast

Three riding modes: "Gonna Fly" for beginners (gentler acceleration), "Nice & Smooth" for intermediate riders, "Rocket Ride" for experienced riders. The power levels (1–10) limit the maximum motor output. As a starting point, roughly a tenth of your body weight is recommended as the level.

1. Select the riding mode on the start screen; 'Gonna Fly' is the gentlest (beginners)
2. Set power level 1–10 (limits motor output); starting point ~1/10 of body weight (e.g. 80 kg → level 8 or lower)
3. Immobilizer activates on a fall, 30 s of inactivity, power level 0, or button press; deactivate via button while board connection is active

Only ride in water at least 1.5 m deep, free of sand suction, obstacles, or strong currents — calm water and little wind are ideal for beginners. Always wear a helmet and life jacket, and don't go farther from shore than you're able to swim. If you lose control, release the throttle lever immediately and submerge the remote control.

1. Water: at least 1.5 m deep throughout, avoid sandy bottoms (impeller suction), watch for obstacles, avoid strong currents/tides; beginners: calm water + little wind
2. Protective gear: helmet + life jacket; avoid sharp edges on wing/mast/stabilizer; keep distance and follow right-of-way rules; rider weight max. 100 kg
3. Loss of control: release the throttle lever, submerge the remote control (stops the drive within milliseconds), jump off to the side (never forward), stay clear of the board/wing/mast
4. Check the weather before riding (avoid storms/rain/fog); observe local regulations (registration/insurance)

Just an informational notice: your remote control isn't currently connected to any board. Re-pair the board via Settings > Pairing > Pair New Board and follow the on-screen steps — the message will then disappear.

1. Mount the board, leave the battery compartment open
2. Select Settings > Pairing > Pair New Board in the menu and follow the four steps until 'Pairing Successful' appears

All good: pairing between the remote control and the board was successful, both are now connected. No further action is needed — you can head out once the startup process is complete.

1. No action needed — pairing is complete
2. If the message doesn't appear at the end of pairing, repeat the process (if interrupted, the previous pairing remains in place)

The motor is blocked via the immobilizer. To unlock it, press the corresponding button on the remote while it's connected to the board — the drive is then ready to go again. If unlocking doesn't work, in our experience it's usually the Speed Limiter, which blocks the start without a GPS signal from the remote.

1. Press the unlock button on the remote (board connection must be active)
2. The lock triggers automatically on a fall, 30 s of inactivity, or Power Level 0
3. In our experience: as long as the board is locked, you can still access reverse gear via the same left button — press and hold instead of a short press, then the remote beeps and shows a large "R" on the display; another short press engages forward gear again
4. If the board still won't unlock or the drive won't start, in our experience it's usually not the immobilizer but the Speed Limiter
5. The Speed Limiter caps the top speed and needs a GPS signal from the remote for that — without a GPS fix, the board won't start
6. Solution: turn off the Speed Limiter — or switch on the remote before the board, so it has time to acquire GPS outdoors

The drive battery still has about 50% capacity left — enough for more riding time, but half of it is used up. Keep an eye on your range and plan your way back to shore in good time so you don't get stranded with an empty battery.

1. Keep an eye on range, plan the way back to shore
2. The percentage shown refers to the board battery (the remote's battery is shown separately)

The board battery only has about 20% capacity left. That's enough for a short remaining ride, but you should head back to shore now. Don't ride further out, so you don't run out of energy in the middle of the water.

1. Head back to shore, don't ride further out
2. At 10% the 'Battery critically low' warning follows, after which the motor shuts off once the battery is empty

The remote's own battery is still about half charged — just a heads-up, no action needed. You still have plenty of reserve; simply recharge the remote after your session.

1. No action needed — recharge after the session
2. This indicator concerns only the remote, not the board battery

The remote's battery has less than two hours of charge left. That's usually enough for the current session, but charge the remote soon — if it runs out of energy, you'll lose control over the drive. Plan your way back.

1. Charge the remote soon, plan the way back
2. Below 30 min, 'Battery Remote critically low' follows along with a power-saving mode

The board battery only has about 10% left — the last reserve before shutdown. Head straight back to shore now and conserve energy by riding smoothly and steadily. Don't wait for the motor to shut itself off once the battery is empty.

1. Take a direct course to shore
2. Avoid full throttle/load spikes, ride smoothly
3. Once 'Battery empty' shows, the drive shuts off — then paddle back

The board battery is depleted and the motor shuts off to protect itself — you have no more propulsion. Stay calm, lie flat on the board, and paddle back to shore. This is not a malfunction, just the normal protective shutdown.

1. Motor is off, no propulsion — stay calm, lie flat on the board
2. Paddle back to shore or get towed
3. Charge on land, avoid deep discharge

The remote's battery only has less than 30 minutes left, so it switches into power-saving mode. End your session and head back to shore promptly — if it runs out of energy, you'll lose control over the drive.

1. End the session promptly, head back to shore
2. Charge the remote afterward (after a long period unused, the charge indicator can take up to 15 min to show)

The drive unit has heated up a lot, so the system throttles power until it cools down. Ease off and ride at a low power level, or take a short break. If the temperature keeps rising, the 'Drive System Overtemperature' message will follow.

1. Reduce power, ride smoothly and slower
2. Take a short break if needed, until the warning clears

The remote is at risk of overheating — usually from direct sun or heat buildup. Keep it in the shade or cool it briefly in the water to bring the temperature down. If it doesn't cool down, the 'Remote Overtemperature' error will follow.

1. Protect the remote from direct sunlight, let it cool briefly
2. Only continue riding once the warning clears

The battery is at risk of overheating and the motor shuts off for protection — you'll have no propulsion. Head back to shore and let the battery cool down completely before riding again or charging it. Don't force the ride.

1. Motor is off — head back to shore
2. Let the battery cool down completely in a shaded, airy spot
3. Only ride again or charge after it has cooled down

The system has detected water inside the drive unit. End the session immediately, take the eFoil out of the water, and stop using it — contact Aerofoils support. Water in the drive unit is a safety-critical issue.

1. End the session, take the eFoil out of the water, stop using it
2. Disconnect the battery and contact Aerofoils support

The drive unit has overheated, so the system stops it for protection. Let the drive unit cool down completely, then try starting again. If the error keeps recurring even after cooling down, check it for debris — otherwise contact support.

1. Let the drive unit cool down completely, then try again
2. If it recurs, check the nozzle/impeller for debris or stiffness
3. If the error persists, contact Aerofoils support

The remote has overheated and stops working for protection. Move it out of the sun, let it cool down completely, then try again. Going forward, don't store or charge it in direct sunlight. If the error persists, contact support.

1. Put the remote in the shade, let it cool down completely, then try again
2. Going forward, don't store/charge it in direct sunlight
3. If it recurs, contact Aerofoils support

The battery has overheated and shuts down for protection. Head back to shore, let it cool down completely, then try again. Don't charge or load it while it's still hot. If the error persists, contact support.

1. Head back to shore, let the battery cool down completely in a shaded, airy spot
2. Only try again after it has cooled down; don't charge/load a hot battery
3. If the error persists, contact Aerofoils support

The data connection between the battery and the board is disrupted. Reconnect the board (turn it off and on again) and check the connectors in the battery compartment for a firm, clean fit. If the error persists, stop using the eFoil and contact support.

1. Reconnect the board (turn it off and back on)
2. Check the data connector and contacts in the battery compartment for a firm, clean fit
3. If the error persists, stop using it and contact Aerofoils support

The drive unit is reporting an error. First try reconnecting the drive to the board — turn the board off and back on, and check the plug connections. If the error persists, stop using it and contact support.

1. Reconnect the drive (turn the board off and back on)
2. Check the plug connections in the battery compartment
3. If the error persists, stop using it and contact Aerofoils support

The system has detected water in the battery — this is a safety-critical issue. End your ride immediately, take the eFoil out of the water, and stop using it. Disconnect the battery, keep it away from anything flammable, and contact support right away.

1. End the ride immediately and take the eFoil out of the water
2. Do not charge/open the battery, keep it away from flammable material
3. Contact Aerofoils support immediately

The system has detected water inside the remote control. End your ride and stop using it, since the control unit may become unreliable. Dry it off on the outside, but don't open it yourself, and contact Aerofoils support to have it checked.

1. End the ride, stop using the remote control
2. Dry it off on the outside, don't open it yourself
3. Contact Aerofoils support to have it checked

First install the Aerofoils app from the App Store. Then on the remote control go to "Settings" → "Bluetooth" → "Pair new phone" (enable Bluetooth first if needed) and scan the QR code shown on the display with the app. The app confirms the connection — each QR code contains an individual key.

1. Install and open the Aerofoils app from the App Store
2. On the remote control: Settings > Bluetooth > Pair new phone (enable Bluetooth via the slider if needed)
3. Scan the displayed QR code with the app; the app reports a successful connection
4. For an additional phone, generate a new QR code via 'Pair new phone' (individual key per code)
5. Transferring rides: a ride is only completed once you switch off the remote control after riding. If it stays on, the ride counts as ongoing and won't be transferred
6. Afterward switch the remote control back on and connect it to the app — this also works without the drive, the board doesn't need to be present. The rides will now be sent to your smartphone
7. Only one remote control can ever be paired with the app at a time. If you ride multiple boards, you'll need to switch the pairing
8. Software version and serial number are shown on the remote control under Settings > Remote Info (Version and Serial) — have both ready when contacting support
9. You won't see whether a newer version is available there: for that, connect the remote control to the app, which shows available updates

The remote control has three screens: the start screen, the ride screen, and the board computer. To switch, hold down the button for 2 seconds each time. Current ride data (speed, time, distance, battery level) is shown on the ride screen, the full ride summary is in the board computer, and you choose the riding mode on the start screen.

1. Switch screens: hold the button for 2 seconds (start screen → ride screen → board computer); turning on takes ~3 s, turning off 5 s
2. Start screen: choose riding mode, board battery level in %; battery icon changes color below 20%, navigation bar turns red below 10%
3. Ride screen: power level (1–10), riding mode, speed, board battery level, ride time + distance
4. Board computer: ride time + distance, max./average speed, percentage of flight time, efficiency over the last 500 m and over the battery charge; press the button to scroll through the data sheets

Hold down the corresponding button for more than 10 seconds — this triggers the soft reset. Only use it when you get error messages that don't make sense, not as a standard fix. A soft reset doesn't delete any settings, it just restarts the remote control. If the error persists, contact support.

1. Hold down the corresponding button for more than 10 seconds → the remote control restarts
2. Only use this for unexplained error messages, not as routine practice
3. Don't confuse this with a factory reset: Settings > Reset > 'Delete all user settings'/'Factory reset' deletes the configuration (you may need to re-pair afterward)

The manual doesn't give a fixed range: ride time depends heavily on wind, current, wing choice, rider weight, speed, and flight height. Use the remote control's battery level as a guide — above 30% means more than 2 h, 10–30% means roughly 30 min to 2 h, below 10% means less than 30 min of ride time left.

1. Range/ride time: no fixed value; depends on wind, current, wing, rider weight, speed, flight height; board battery is shown in % on the start screen
2. E-SURFER real-world value: large battery, manufacturer claim up to 2 h / realistically ~1.5 h; light battery up to 1 h / realistically ~45 min (varies with weight, speed, conditions)
3. Board: 102 l, 1.76 × 0.72 × 0.18 m, approx. 9.5 kg
4. Drive: 6 kW peak (input), 4.5 kW continuous power, approx. 7.6 kg
5. Remote control: 191 g, 8 h battery life, 3 h charging time (0–30% in 30 min), IP68 up to 2 m, >500 charge cycles, sunlight-readable color display, floats
6. 1350 wing: 13 dm² / 0.95 m wingspan; 400 stabilizer: 4 dm² / 0.5 m; battery/charger details in the separate data sheets

The eFoil is designed for 0 °C to 40 °C and should only be used when in perfect condition. The rider must not weigh more than 100 kg. Avoid extreme weather like storms or heavy rain, as well as heavily polluted waters, and always ride at a safe speed suited to the conditions.

1. Temperature range: generally 0 °C to 40 °C (this only describes the product's capability; water sports remain dangerous in extreme temperatures)
2. Rider weight: max. 100 kg; the eFoil is not a means of transport and must not be used to tow people/objects
3. Weather/waters: avoid storms, heavy rain, rough seas, and polluted waters; check the weather (including changing conditions) before every ride
4. Choose a safe speed suited to the conditions (visibility, water, skill level); only use eFoils that are in perfect condition

Disassemble the eFoil by doing the assembly steps in reverse order. First disconnect and remove the battery, put the protective caps back on the wings, then loosen the wing, stabilizer and mast. The caps protect you from the sharp edges and protect the wings from damage during storage.

1. Disconnect the battery: open the battery compartment, disconnect the data connector, then the power cable (black/orange), remove the battery
2. Put the protective caps back on the wings (protects against sharp edges and damage)
3. Loosen the wing (3× M6×30), stabilizer (2× M6×20) and mast (4× M6×20) in reverse assembly order, pull the mast out of the mount
4. Place the board on a soft surface while doing this (e.g. board bag)

Always transport the eFoil in its dedicated transport bags and take the battery out of the board beforehand. That way all components are maximally protected and the eFoil stays easy to handle. When shipping the battery, also follow the applicable dangerous goods regulations — batteries count as dangerous goods.

1. Remove the battery from the board before transport (data connector, then power cable); the battery travels separately from the board
2. Pack the board, drive unit and accessories in their dedicated transport bags (board/drive bag)
3. Follow the applicable dangerous goods regulations when shipping the battery; don't put the battery in a pressure-sealed box (exception: transport/storage boxes designed for this purpose)
4. Store everything clean, salt-free and dry beforehand; rinse with fresh water after saltwater use before disassembling

The Audi e-tron foil is delivered in three packaging units: the battery, the board bag with the board, and the drive bag with the wing, stabilizer, drive unit, charger, tools, and remote control. That gives you everything you need to assemble, charge, and ride the eFoil.

1. Unit 1: battery (own packaging)
2. Unit 2 (board bag): board
3. Unit 3 (drive bag): wing 1350 + M6×30 screws, stabilizer 400 + M6×20 screws, drive unit (mast), charger, T-wrench (TX30), L-Boxx Mini, charging cable + charging plug (remote control), remote control
4. In addition: battery data sheet, charger data sheet, warranty booklet (data sheets are in the drive bag)

Spare parts for the drive, board, wing, stabilizer, and remote control are available for the Audi e-tron foil — from the impeller to the latches and mast seal, all the way to the leash and charging cable. If you can't find a part in the list, support can help; further accessories are available in the online shop or from an Aerofoils dealer.

1. Drive: nozzle/jet (22502S1B), stator (22501P5D), impeller (22205P3C), M8 nut (NT10)
2. Board: latch 2× (NT29), latch holder 2× (11006S1A) + screws (NT19), mast seal (11004S1A), M6×20 screws 4× (NT22)
3. Wing/stabilizer: wing 1350 (51001S1) + M6×30 screws 3× (NT59), stabilizer 400 (52001S1) + M6×20 screws 2× (NT22)
4. The 2000 front wing needs the 5 mm longer M6×35 screws instead — not the M6×30 used for the other wings
5. Remote control: leash (33106P1), charging cable (34101P1); special tools: impeller puller (22902P1), stator removal tool (22901P1)
6. Missing part → contact support (ideally with the order number); further accessories in the online shop or from your dealer

The status bar shows six icons: the clock (time), a lock (motor locked/unlocked), a warning/error icon (active info, warning or error), the Bluetooth icon, the GPS status, and the remote control's battery level. The color of the battery and Bluetooth icons additionally indicates their respective state.

1. Clock: current time. Lock: motor locked/unlocked (unlock via button when connected to the board)
2. Warning/error icon: active info, warning or error; meaning shown as plain text on the display or in the error table
3. Bluetooth: white = active, blue = connected to board; GPS: shows the GPS status
4. Remote control battery level: white = >30% (>2 h), yellow = 10–30% (30 min–2 h), red = <10% (<30 min)

In the vast majority of cases, the Speed Limiter is active. It limits the top speed and needs a GPS signal from the remote for this — without a GPS fix, the board simply won't start. This isn't a defect, it's intended behavior. Either you turn off the Speed Limiter, or you give the remote time to find GPS.

1. Check in the remote's settings whether the Speed Limiter is turned on — the GPS status is shown in the remote's status bar
2. Option A: turn off the Speed Limiter in the settings — after that, the board will start even without a GPS signal
3. Option B (keep the Speed Limiter active): reverse the order — turn on the remote first, then the board
4. This gives the remote time to find a GPS signal; wait outdoors with a clear view of the sky until the GPS status is stable
5. In our experience the most common support case for Aerofoils: many people suspect a defect in the board or the immobilizer, when in fact the system is just waiting for GPS
6. Indoors or between tall buildings, a fix often doesn't happen; under open sky it usually only takes a moment
7. If the board still doesn't start even with the Speed Limiter turned off and a working connection, contact Aerofoils support

A clicking noise when carving or lifting the board out of the water almost always comes from the connection between the mast and the mast plate. First check for play: flip the board over and push the mast back and forth by hand. If you feel movement, retighten the two upper mast screws to 10 Nm. If you don't feel confident doing this yourself, we can do it for you.

1. Check for play: lay the assembled board upside down and push the mast back and forth by hand — noticeable movement means there's play in the mast/mast plate connection
2. The right spot: remove the drive unit from the board. At the top end of the mast sits the controller — a black box with the cables running to the battery. That's where you'll be working, not down at the motor and wings
3. Remove the battery before working on the board
4. Scratch the threadlocker out of the cover screw heads with a screwdriver
5. Loosen the four cover screws with a TX20, take the controller cover off the drive unit and set it aside
6. Loosen the four controller screws with a TX20, carefully move the controller aside — watch out for the cables, don't pull or kink them
7. Retighten the two mast screws underneath to 10 Nm each: one with a 5 mm hex key, one with a 4 mm hex key — use a torque wrench, don't just go by feel
8. Mount the controller with a maximum of 3 Nm
9. Sort the cables neatly so nothing gets pinched
10. Mount the cover with a maximum of 3 Nm — the 3 Nm is an upper limit, too tight will strip the plastic thread
11. Afterwards check the mast play on the assembled board: the mast shouldn't move noticeably
12. If play remains despite correct torque: stop and contact support, there's more going on than just loose screws
13. Safety: don't ride with a noticeably loose mast — at speed the play can suddenly get worse

Small paint chips are cosmetic and no reason to take the board out of service. We no longer offer touch-up paint pens — they never matched the color tone exactly anyway. For a clean repair, go to a local paint shop; we'll give you the original color values.

1. Email us at support@e-surfer.com: tell us whether your board is dark or white and where the damage is (top, bottom, or stripe) — then we'll give you the original color values for mixing
2. A local paint shop can use these values to mix the exact shade for you
3. Before repairing: the spot must be clean, dry, and free of grease; rinse off salt water thoroughly beforehand and let it dry completely
4. Don't leave it too long: a paint chip is an exposed spot through which moisture can gradually penetrate over time
5. It's different for deeper damage: cracks, damaged structure, or possible water ingress aren't a job for the paint shop — contact support before your next session in that case

The reverse gear lets you bring your board back to you after a fall. It has to be enabled once in the settings (menu: Comfort → Reverse Gear, green means on) and only works while the board is locked — which happens automatically after a fall. Press the left button for 2 to 3 seconds until it beeps and a large "R" appears on the display.

1. Enable it once: press the middle button until the settings appear, then Comfort → Reverse Gear. Green means on, red means off (the remote's menu is in English)
2. Do NOT unlock the board beforehand: a short press on the left button releases the lock, and then the reverse gear won't work anymore
3. Already unlocked? Hold the remote briefly underwater, then the board is locked again
4. Press the left button for 2 to 3 seconds until the remote beeps and shows a large "R" on the display — reverse gear is now active
5. Apply throttle slowly: the board moves backward and after a while turns nose-first — that's normal
6. Press the same button briefly again: this engages normal forward gear
7. As soon as the nose of the board points toward you, apply throttle slowly — the board comes back to you
8. Be deliberately cautious with the throttle: you're steering a board with a running drive unit in your own direction
9. After every use, power resets to 30% — use the arrow buttons to set it back to your usual level

Check two things: the contacts on the battery and the power supply. With charging problems, the charger is the culprit in most cases — you can tell because the first LED lights up, but then nothing happens for hours. No charging progress after an hour isn't normal.

1. Look at the contacts on the battery and at both ends of the charging cable
2. Plug in the battery and watch it for an hour: no progress means there's a fault
3. Test with a second original power supply as a cross-check, ideally from another board — that way you'll immediately know whether the charger or the battery is the problem
4. As a rule, only charge with the original power supply
5. Check whether the battery still works in the drive unit: if the board runs with it, the battery itself is fine
6. When charging from weak power sources (campsite, solar system), charge slowly: press the button for longer than 3 and less than 5 seconds after plugging in
7. If the LED on the charger switches from green to yellow, the press was too long — the battery shuts off, so start over
8. If it still doesn't work: get in touch with us, including the purchase date and what you've already tested

Check the power cables. If the sleeve inside the connector is missing or broken, you don't get a clean connection — the board then won't confirm the closed lid with the usual tone, and the motor won't start. From the outside, the contacts often look fine.

1. Open the battery compartment and unplug the power cables
2. Look inside the connector: the inner sleeve must be present and undamaged
3. Deliberately plug all cables back in firmly and close the lid again
4. If the tone still doesn't sound, you'll generally need a new set of power cables — the connector can't be repaired individually
5. The replacement is doable with instructions, but requires tools: get in touch with us and we'll work out whether to do it yourself or take it to a workshop
6. Simply cleaning the contacts won't help here, because the fault is inside the connector

No, that's supposed to happen. The controller sits at the top of the mast and is water-cooled. While riding, water is drawn in at the bottom and guided up through the mast. When you lift the board out, it drains back out — even as a small stream and over a certain period of time.

1. Water coming out between the mast and the mast plate when lifting it out is normal and not a sign of a leak
2. Reason: the controller at the top of the mast is water-cooled; the water is drawn in at the bottom while riding and guided up through the mast
3. Even a small stream over a certain period of time is nothing to worry about
4. It's different if there's water in the battery compartment: that's not cooling water — in that case, stop riding and check the cause

You can usually get this off yourself without disassembling anything. First disconnect the battery, then work from the outside. Importantly, don't do this: don't open any bolted chamber of the drive unit to get better access — behind it sits the motor unit filled with oil.

1. Disconnect the battery before working on the drive unit
2. Unwind the line or film from the outside; if necessary, carefully cut it with side cutters
3. For a foreign object right at the impeller, unscrewing the nozzle is enough
4. Afterwards check: does the propeller spin freely and run smoothly?
5. Check whether the line has cut into the shaft seal — visible grooves are a reason not to keep riding
6. Don't open any bolted chamber of the drive unit: if you open the wrong one, the motor oil will leak out and the drive unit will need to go to a workshop
7. If you can't get it off completely or something's damaged: get in touch with us

You can often fix small bubbles yourself: carefully prick them with a fine needle and press the pad firmly back down. If the pad is lifting over a large area or the bubble keeps coming back, only a replacement will help — we or the manufacturer handle that, since the pad needs to be glued down cleanly and properly aligned over the whole surface.

1. Prick the bubble at its highest point with a fine needle, smooth the air out, press the pad down flat and let it dry under weight
2. If smaller spots at the edge come loose, glue them back down with a standard contact adhesive like Pattex
3. If the bubble comes back within a few sessions, the adhesive has lost its grip on the surface — pressing it down again won't help anymore
4. Rinse the board with fresh water after every session and don't store it permanently in direct sun: heat and salt residue work against the adhesive bond
5. In training and rental use, the pad comes loose faster because it gets scrubbed over the edge from behind when getting up — check it there regularly
6. Get in touch with us for a replacement, with photos and purchase date

If the motor is audibly spinning but thrust is missing or delayed, check the impeller first. If that's fine, this behavior points to a slipping clutch. In either case, stop riding.

1. Pay attention to the pattern: motor noise increases, thrust doesn't follow or only kicks in with delay
2. Take the board out of the water and don't keep riding
3. Is the nozzle still attached? Unscrew it and inspect the impeller — it must not show any damage
4. If the impeller is damaged, that's the cause
5. If the impeller is fine, everything points to the clutch: it can be retightened, but that's tied to the correct torque and belongs in expert hands
6. Film the behavior briefly if possible — that speeds up any remote diagnosis considerably
7. Get in touch with us with purchase date and drive unit number

Yes, it's the same board. Until summer 2026 the models were sold under the name Audi e-tron foil; since the partnership with Audi ended, they're now called Aerofoils. Nothing has changed technically: same components, same spare parts, same operation. Everything you find here about Aerofoils applies equally to your Audi e-tron foil.

1. The model lineup and their former names: Aerofoils Adventure (formerly Audi e-tron foil Adventure), Aerofoils Performance (formerly Audi e-tron foil Performance), Aerofoils Competition (formerly Audi e-tron foil Competition), Aerofoils HyperFly (formerly Audi e-tron foil HyperFly), Aerofoils Airfly (formerly Audi e-tron foil Airfly)
2. Technically nothing has changed: drive, battery, remote control, wings, mast and accessories have all stayed the same
3. Spare parts still fit, and all the steps for care, maintenance and troubleshooting still apply unchanged
4. In the eFoil Doctor, select Aerofoils as the brand at the top — the answers also apply to Audi e-tron foil, Audi eFoil and Audi e-tron Board
5. If you have questions about your board, just get in touch with the model name, no matter how it's spelled

The handlebar itself is almost always fine. There's a predetermined breaking point in the handlebar mount that deliberately gives way under a hard impact and releases the handlebar forward — a protective function for you and the material. Only the broken Pin Holder needs to be replaced.

1. What's broken isn't the handlebar, but the Pin Holder — the part with the notches that holds the handlebar in the mount
2. Spare parts package 200.730.010.000; we have it in stock
3. Loosen the central M6x20 screw with the T-wrench from the Aerofoils toolbox — don't lose the washers and wave spring, the order matters
4. Depending on the factory setting, there are several thin metal shims (0.1 mm) under the rotary handle
5. Push the new Pin Holder through the base plate from below, then fit the wave spring and shims in the correct order
6. When screwing it back together, align the two tabs of the Pin Holder with the rotary handle; the line on the rotary handle points to the lock symbol
7. Mount the handlebar, turn the rotary handle to the closed position — noticeable resistance is normal; afterwards move the handlebar back and forth, it must sit firmly
8. Adjust the clamping force: if the rotary handle is too hard to turn, remove one metal shim; if the handlebar isn't tight enough, add one — recheck after every change

Under the EVA deck pad there are threaded inserts you can't see from outside. For that reason there's a factory-made paper template at 1:1 scale, one each for front and rear — only for the Competition model. Only pierce where you actually need the strap, because every hole is permanent.

1. Request the template from us: support@e-surfer.com — we'll send you the two PDFs (front and rear). They only exist for Competition
2. Make sure to print at 100 percent, not 'fit to printable area' — otherwise the spacing will be wrong
3. Check the reference distance: 1 cm and 1 inch are printed on the template, measure before continuing
4. Trim the two A4 sheets along the dashed line, glue them together along the long edge, and mark the orientation
5. Place the template on the board exactly as shown on it
6. Pierce through the paper and deck pad at the marked spots — only at the positions you actually need; be careful with your fingers
7. If unsure, send us a photo of the board beforehand and we'll tell you which positions make sense

You get it from us. Email us at support@e-surfer.com and attach the invoice for your board — that tells us the model and year of manufacture so we can find the right declaration for you. The documents differ by model series and year.

1. Send a short email to support@e-surfer.com with your board's invoice attached
2. You'll receive the declaration of conformity as a PDF; it's issued by the manufacturer, Aerofoils GmbH
3. It confirms that the device meets European requirements — including the Radio Equipment Directive, since the board, battery, and remote control communicate with each other via radio
4. Let us know what you need it for — typically authorities, insurance companies, or import into another country
5. If the test certificate is also required, we'll send that along too

Usually there's something simple behind it: a foreign object in the drive or play at the mast. Both change the sound noticeably and can be checked in a few minutes. Only once the impeller and mast fit are fine does the noise point to a bearing — then you can keep riding until the end of the season and send the drive in afterward.

1. Unscrew the nozzle and look at the impeller: grass or a foreign object in the drive changes the sound noticeably, as does a nick on a blade
2. Check the mast fit: does the mast sit tight on the plate under the board, or does it have play? Play shows up as a knocking sound and can easily be mistaken for a drive problem, even though it isn't one
3. Record the sound with your phone, ideally while riding — with two boards, record both, since the difference is much easier to judge on a recording
4. If the impeller and mast are fine, the noise points to a bearing in the intake or the motor; that can't be narrowed down remotely
5. Until then you can keep riding and send the drive in at the end of the season — get in touch with us so we can coordinate that
6. A slight whine is part of the base sound of every drive; what matters here is the change over time

That's aluminum oxide and purely a cosmetic issue. It won't cause problems over the season — you can keep riding as normal. Just keep an eye on whether a screw connection gets stiff because of it; if so, get in touch before forcing anything.

1. How to recognize it: white, powdery or crusty deposits, typically around screw connections and at the intake — the aluminum reacts there with water, especially with salt water
2. The residue itself is harmless and no reason to take the board out of service
3. Keep an eye on it: if a screw connection becomes stiff or won't loosen cleanly anymore, get in touch before forcing it
4. Send a photo to support@e-surfer.com, then we'll tell you what makes sense
5. If the drive is coming to us for another reason anyway, this can be taken care of at the same time on request
6. Occurs even with very good maintenance — it's not a sign of neglect

All Aerofoils products come with 24 months of statutory warranty. It applies to the seller: if you bought your board from us, you contact us, not the manufacturer. We'll take on the case and clear it with Aerofoils.

1. Get in touch with us at support@e-surfer.com and briefly describe what happened and when it occurred
2. We need three things: your board's invoice, photos of the damage, and the serial number
3. Take photos from several angles, plus an overview shot of the whole component
4. For a noise or hard-to-describe behavior, a short video helps more than any description
5. If it involves the battery, water ingress, or riding safety: stop using it until the case is resolved
6. Aerofoils doesn't offer any manufacturer warranty beyond this, nor an extension through service

Get in touch with us first at support@e-surfer.com. We'll clear the case and then tell you where the drive should go — that depends on the specific case. Please don't send it off on your own, or it might end up in the wrong place.

1. Contact us first: briefly describe the problem at support@e-surfer.com; we'll agree on what needs to be done and give you the shipping address
2. Before packing, photograph the drive from all sides — that's your proof in case something happens during transport
3. Put the drive in the drive bag, then put the bag in a box, and label the box 'FRAGILE GOODS'
4. Without a box, the shipping company won't take liability for damage — only this way does the transport insurance apply
5. Always include the remote control: many fault patterns can't be reproduced without the matching remote
6. If the drive is being sent in anyway, a service can be done at the same time on request